Overheated

25 February

Written by GYPSY JC

Some weeks ago, we met a guy who gave us some tips on places to visit which included the Serra da Estrella, a vast mountainous National park. So today we set off from Fundao which is a place we are unlikely to hurry back to, for Covilha and then into the Estrella. Covilha is amazing in that it is built on the lower slopes of the main mountain and we climbed nearly 300 metres just to clear the city suburbs.









Then onward and upward, road surface good but very twisty and steep as one might expect. Our pilot, Mandy, hung on In there varying from second to third gear as we passed the 800 m mark, followed by the 1000m mark stopping off when possible for quick photo. The higher we climbed the more magnificent the views became and if you are ever travelling in Portugal, dont miss it.The only problem with that was that JC kept touching the video button on the camera so that most of them were useless. Anyway, on and up,
















































1600 m then 1900 m and we are there, 6230 ft ABOVE SEA LEVEL!! Round the final bend and there were the ski slopes, sheet ice and plenty of people having a great time.









A note for the technically minded, at this altitude your toilet cassette will pressurise and difficult to open the slide!! Release the pressure button!

The dogs were let out for the usual and they made a beeline for the nearest patch of snow and rolled in it, over and over, no doubting their pedigree! After a couple more piccies, time to swop drivers and off down the hill. Despite much advice and guidance on the need for low gears, 4, out of 6, proved too high and with the assistance of further advice down to 3rd we go and 2nd for the tight corners. Some discussion followed as to the wear and tear this downward spiral was having on the brakes, shortly followed by the copilot calling, what's that smell? You guessed it, the brakes were badly and I mean badly overheating. The nearest lay by was urgently needed and on a 6000 ft mountain they are not in abundance but we found one before everything burst into flames. There followed a quiet conversation as to the nature and extent of any damage caused and what further action was necessary which we sensibly agreed was a cooling off period?! After about half an hour we continued down to the next village and moored up for a late lunch much to the gratification of our 4 legged companions.

After lunch, things returned to something like normal and we soldiered on through some lovely countryside to our present night stop at Pedro do Sul overlooking the river Sul.


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Location:Aire at St Pedro do Sul

Portugese Supper

24th February

Good easy drive using A23 motorway up to a camp site at Fundao except that we had to go 30 odd miles extra to take in the GPL garage. This time we didn't close the bottles off and the effect was much improved. Only a little seemed to leak out.

An electronic peage system has just been introduced on the Portugese motorways and cameras record registration numbers. We were told about it by an ex pat in the Algarve who claimed that they couldn't do anything about foreign vehicles so to ignore it all, but we gather that if you enter Portugal via a motorway they give you a leaflet explaining that you have to pay for the useage at a participating garage. List not supplied or at a post office. There is an hilarious article on my motorhomes fun forum ( sad, I know), where a couple tried to pay a very frustrated garage attendant who explained that the system hadn't worked since they installed it, and then at a post office but were told you can't pay there. The leaflet explains the fine of €150 if you do not pay, but WHERE. We have decided to ignore it.

The camp site was rather grim with old statics around but we were able to sterilise our water tank ( the unmentionable thing that happened the other day) and also they had a restaurant which was next door to where we parked Wishstream. It was open. The menu was handwritten. 3 x fish meals, and 5 meat. Not one word of English spoken. There were 3 x gentlemen already eating. A large bone each in a bean stew, so I asked them what it was. With charades and Ponglais we identified it was pork cheeks. I looked at Jc and he shook his head. Ok, one meat dish down and 4 to go. One of the guys spoke better Ponglais than the rest and we understood that there was small fish, like sardine, Dourade which I know, and then a steak off a large fish, probably halibut. So, I chose the Dourade. We then got the adorable chef, who was not young and all dressed up in white chef gear including hat, to show me the meat for the other dishes. BEEF.? Non, LAMB, Non, all 5 meat options are pork! Various parts came out of the fridge. I chose some and returned to the table explaining that I had ordered the one that looked most like what we know.

The starter was a veg and spaghetti soup. Delicious. My fish came with boiled pots. Jc had .... Pork! Something, and we shared a nice salad. I had chocolate mousse, and he had home made creme caramel. Bottle of wine, 2 x ports, 1 x coffee. €20 job done!


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Location:Fundao

Barragem de Povoa

23rd February

Just checked the gas!! One tank is empty. Will need to plot in a detour and then have the usual dramas!! We had planned in a visit to the Barragem de Povoa, and whilst not far away from Gary's place, we wanted to visit Morvao and do some shopping. Let's stick to this plan today and get the gas tomorrow.

Morvao is another hilltop, fortified town with loads of history. For a tourist with dogs it is not that easy to visit, as there are no cafes with any outdoor bits so we can't even donate to their economy. But interesting to see a well planned fortress with 360 degree views.

The Portugese are taking the motorhomers very seriously. When we arrived at the Barragem, a brand new loo block, and hard standing is in the last phase of build. We plonk ourselves right by the water's edge and get the deck chairs out.






The pups are racing around in and out of the water, and we then notice they have been joined by two more. Oh no, not more strays. These look well fed, although no collars. One is really sweet looking terrier and the other a large long haired mountain type dog. The dogs spend the next hour chasing each other round and round and having the time of their lives, and we accept there is little we can do.


We find out the dogs are owned by the guy running the bar further around the Barragem, so at least they are cared for.

Very hot day today and we both got quite burned.




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Dogs for sale

22nd February

Chilling out under the olive trees for a couple of days. It is boiling today. Saddlebag 25c and we are getting burnt. Gary has a good exchange book and DVD library and loads of home made pickles and chutneys for sale. We are trying not to buy anything other than the national fodder on this trip, but once we heard it was all made by the Portuguese neighbour that cleared the way for an order. Sweet cucumber pickle, Mediterranean relish and orange marmalade.

Great walks all around through cork tree farms and amongst scenery reminiscent of visits to Derbyshire, with stone walls marking out fields and perimeters.







We decided to have lunch out and walked up the hill to the small town. Because of the temperature we took the dogs and arrived at gary's recommended restaurant. Unfortunately their garden was almost totally out of the sun and therefore cold. The very kind waitress agreed to lay up a table outside, but we didn't want to be cold, and billy no mates, so left. The other 3 bars in town didn't do food. Cursing the dogs we returned to Wishstream for actually a delicious lunch and sleep in the sun. Gary invited us to the Burial of the Sardine evening which we declined as the b............dogs would probably bark the place down if left. WHO WANTS SOME DOGS!!


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Location:Gary’s place

Olives

21st February

Our Wishstream journey today took us through Eucalyptus tree country. Hundreds of young and old trees being farmed all along our route. A field of young ones is a spectacular sight with their bluey/ mauve leaves.

One of the British motorhomers at Montsaraz told us about a great little camp site run by an English guy that is en our route. Camping Asseiceira is at St Antonio das Areias,in the middle of nowhere really but apparently worth a visit. He was right, Gary is a great host, and has an olive grove come campsite for about 15 vans max. Probably the nicest site we have stayed in.






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Location:St Antonias de Areias

Tourists

20th February

Evora is ranked number two in the Portuguese most liveable cities survey and I think I know why! It has at least 15 shoe shops where I whiled away a couple of hours and finally bought a pair of brown suede boots. There are also a couple of cathedrals and lots of cafes, so definately a place to visit.

Montsaraz is a tiny walled village perched on top of a high hill with one of the best views in Europe.






It is also just north of one of the largest Barragems in Portugal.






The village is in excellent condition with beautiful cobbled streets and unfortunately a lot of stray dogs that wanted to sniff my Gibby all the time.

There is a large car park below the city walls given to motorhomes and a public loo just inside the city walls.



There is also a font with drinking water close by. We are constantly amazed at how pro the Portugese are with their Aires for motorhomes. Really making the country very easy and cheap to travel around.


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Location:Montsaraz

More signs

19th February

Portugal accounts for about 50% of the world's cork production and makes it into all sorts of products. The obvious ones but also Hats, coats, skirts, handbags, and shoes. There is a great shop in Silves which JC had found and bought me a handbag as a Valentine gift. So we spent a good hour sculling around in there with one hand on Kicker's collar in case he thought the cork was still on the tree!

Set off for Evora. Out of Sivles there is a very minor road which takes us the to the main Northerly route. Unfortunately we took a wrong turn out of the town and only realised after driving up hill and down dale for quite a while. When we discovered where we were it was quicker to continue along what had become a very, very, minor lane to Sao batholomeu de Messiness. As we turned into the village my eye caught a sign with a lorry shown side on and an arrow running from bumper to number and the número 6m over it. JC who was on the helm and looking steadfastly ahead said he didn't see it, and as I had never seen one similar I decided to forget it.

Jane took us down a small road which looked like it was a dead end with the railway line running across it. As we reached the end of the road we saw the road continue left down a steep hill. The actual road was very narrow with high sided narrow pavements either side and then solid walls. At the bottom of the hill there was an a tunnel under the railway line, but the angle was so acute and the space so small, we could now understand the sign. After much backing and tooing, with some froing, and the usual bickering. JC drove her through. ( I thought we agreed we wouldn't get into these scrapes anymore).

Camping Orbitur at Evora was very pleasant and apart from the fact that we used the wrong hose to fill up our water tank (I can't bear to think about it), all was well.



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Location:Evora

Car parks called Home

18th February

Got back last night to our now rather 'homely' car park in Portimao. Ths SAS mobile camper man arrived early and we discussed the skylight and gas adapter. He couldn't help with the latter, but phoned Burstner on the spot and gave us a price. ( cheaper than everyone else), but didn't know when he could get the part. We will speak again on Monday, when he would have an idea of timing. This guy travels for miles so could meet us North of Lisbon which would be ideal for our plans as we intended to start the ascent immediately.

We decided to move on to our also 'homely' car park in Silves as I had seen a pair of boots in a shop there which after much thought had now decided to buy. The shop was shut which was a bit odd being Saturday afternoon, but we escaped from the dogs to our now favourite bar for a drink. It turns out the Doncaster electrician knows quite a few people we know in the city. What a small world!


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Location:Silves

Lagos and creatures

17th February

I had decided that Gybo's ears needed a trim as some of the food here has gravy in it, and I think much of this is ending up where it shouldn't. Today was the day, and I started with a trim Kicker first. I like to do this in campsites where there is usually a high wall or picnic table that I can put them on, and had just started on Kicker when I noticed some pine needles on the ground. Oh, I thought they were all Eucalyptus trees round here and that we were safe from caterpillars. I looked up and saw a nest just off to our right. I then noticed the camp manager walking around with a bottle of blue stuff. He then walked up to the trunk of the tree and started pouring the blue liquid onto the bark as high up as he could get. I picked up the big boy and whistled him into the van and returned to get my brushes. There were hundreds of caterpillars marching down the tree and at the bottom in a heap now dead from whatever acid substance had been poured over them. Not sure it did much good to the tree either. OMG. Kicker had cocked his leg on that tree the previous evening. We decided to leave quickly.

Some friends are coming to Lagos in April, so we went to see where they are going to be staying. On the East side of town right on the Meia Praia Beach. Miles of white sand, all deserted at this time of the year, but I would think a lovely place to be in the season.




We then moved on to the now very sadly famous Praia de Luz. Actually a very smart, clean and attractive place with restaurants overlooking the beach which is protected on the East side by a magnificent headland.






Not sure if it rock or sandstone but very colourful. All very English with Winkworths estate agents office in pole position.

We would have liked to have gone on to the point at Sagres, where the Southern coast meets the west, but we ran out of time and made for the tiny village of Burgau which I had read about. Very simple place with some nice properties and a good restaurant overlooking the beach.


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Location:Portimao

Going west

16th February

We have been told about a Campervan mobile SOS guy who calls into the site most weeks and we are thinking of a) buying a new gas adapter. One that will fit and not spray gas everywhere. And b) seeing if he could get a new skylight for us. Two quotes from the uk are for £500. Just for a rectangular piece of Perspex! But whilst the dog leads are holding, not sure if it is completely weatherproof. He confirms he will be at our car park here on Saturday, so we decide to head off to Lagos and come back here to meet him then.

First we take in the village of Ferragudo which stands on the opposite bank of the Arade river to Portimao.







We chose to have our morning coffee in a restaurant overlooking the small quay area. The service and fesh fish looked amazing and we discussed coming back one night for supper until we saw the menu. Fish main courses being €22 which is really expensive for Portugal. Looking in the estate agents window, this place is obviously popular and pricey.

We drove on to Lagos and arrived at a really run down site around 4.30 ish. Still, it is only for one night and we wanted to catch up with the laundry. I was amazed to see so many english vanners staying here, all very chummy with each other. We couldn't see the attraction at all. The site is on the cliffs on the west side of the river and we walked down some really steep steps to the beach. I forgot my camera and kicked myself. The sandy cliffs were an amazing reddy colour and quite beautiful.



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Location:Lagos

Portimao

15th February

Heard from our friendly English neighbours that the dogs had been barking whilst we were out last night. Hmm. That would account for the French van on the other side banging on their window when we got back and driving off early. Oops. Flipping dogs!!


Lovely lunch in one of the beach restaurants. We had portugese speciality starters. Little breaded balls and oval shapes each with a different filling including crab, prawns, squid and white fish. I had the portugese clams for main. Delicious and JC had an enormous and excellent tuna salad. The sun was out and we were sheltered from the chilly wind.



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Location:Portimao marina

Food for thought

14th February

First impressions of Portimao are of a big, high rise town with lots of holiday apartments. But it has a lovely beach with loads of restaurants along a boardwalk and is situated on the West side of the Arade river that runs up to Silves.









Whilst our car park is heaving with vans, it is enormous and there
is much more room than if you were in a proper campsite. Also, it is close to the beach.

The wind is still very northerly and chilly, but out of it, people are wearing shorts and t shirts and most of our neighbours are now well tanned.

Spent a relaxed day on the beach mostly and then back to change for our Valentine dinner. There are hundreds of restaurants in Portimao, and we sort of already know that we are not really going to the MARINA LOUNGE for the best food in town. But the atmosphere is lovely and ritzy. There are about 20 people in the restaurant and a one man band keyboard player/ singer who did an excellent job. I had the set Valentine meal, and JC had a different main. My food was not good. A well known national newspaper was reviewing a well known Whitstable restaurant a couple of years ago, and suggested that diners would be better off eating an Ugg boot. Well, I suppose even that would taste of something! The food Looked great but just had absolutely no taste. However, I can sympathise with the chef. Shopping for meat in Portugal has been a bit hit and miss.

We bought some great looking kebabs when we first arrived In the Algarve. They were made up of large square chunks of meat with peppers and onions like you would find in Tesco, only twice the size. JC celebrated the purchase by buying a small, portable Barbie and sat outside in the freezing cold and dark for 45 minutes waiting for them to cook. Or at least change colour. They were tough, so I sat outside for another 30 minutes and they blackened up a bit but tasted like the said boot. I binned mine and JC exercised his jaw a bit before doing the same. We gave the Barbie, the charcoal and the firefighters away the next day to our neighbour.

I wanted to make a chicken and orange casserole using Vilja' oranges, for when my sister came to stay. The market at Fuseta has a good meat section and the chickens were at one end. They have their legs sort of hanging down rather than being folded up close to the body, so I wan't sure they were chicken at first. Also, the word ' pollo' in Spanish seemed to have changed to 'frango' in portugese which didn't 't seem to be at all close. And finally they were bright yellow. Anyway, I looked around for some thigh joints and decided to ask. Firstly, I always ask if they speak English. Just in case. But I was get the same reply. NO So, I stand on tip toe so that the butcher can see me better over the counter and rub my hands down either side of the top of my right leg repeating the word 'thigh', a couple of times. He frowns and holds the chicken upside down so it looks a bit like a rag doll and asks 'frango? Hmm, I am now thinking of maybe asking for some breasts but .... don't think so! I'll just take the whole thing then. Thank You. Could you joint it? As I say this I hold my arm out in front of me horizontally with my hand in the vertical plane, and bring it down like a chopping movement. The butcher lies the Frango down and holds the knife in line with its breast bone, from its neck to its parsons nose. CHOP. The bird falls apart like an Easter egg. Ahhh, again please. He pulls the two halves together, swivels it around 90 degrees and chops it in half as if making quarters of a cucumber sandwich. Oh, well. It will taste ok, just be a bit odd to serve up.

On another occasion, Jc bought some steak to make a beef curry. We were assured it came from the rib region judging by the charades acted out by the butcher. Suffice to say that we prepared it, cooked it, tasted it, then froze it, and finally boiled it for an hour with some paprika and had it as a Hungarian Goulash. It was still tough.

It would be wrong to give the impression though that we are wasting away. I am just eating more peanuts before dinner in case of any culinary mishaps.


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Location:Portimao

Hans Christian Anderson

13th February

Went to the TIC in Silves this morning for the local gen to find there is a Hans Christian Anderson exhibition on in the town. I know I am not at at all learned in the culture stuff but was surprised to see the kind of work he did. Really interesting.

















Spent a bit of time looking around the town and searching for a Valentine card and present for my Valentine. Obviously can't reveal what I got, but suffice to say that we have not travelled very far from Silves today and I think we will be going back tomorrow!

Visited Porches Pottery at Porches, which makes hand made Portugese style stuff in all shapes and patterns, and then on to Portimao where we had heard the council has turned a car park in the marina into an Aire for €2 a day. Water is €1.50 for 100 litres and there is a drain for grey water etc. so ideal for us travelling through. Hundreds of vans here as usual. Some people been here for months just getting out of the weather back home!

We went off in search of a bar and started off walking around the marina. So came across the swankiest bar in town. All La Di Da, white curved leather settees, big ship's lights with candles, and white marble floor and everything? And with a beautiful view over the bay, ( well, in the dark!). Anyway, JC was so impressed, he booked a table for tomorrow night. The old romantic!


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Location:Portimao

What we did today

12th February.

Had lunch on the secret beach we found a couple of says ago. It is called Praia de Laurenco, and gorgeous.

And afterwards we drove back the big car park at Silves, and went to the jamming session in the bar we had found a couple of night ago. O'Cais. Had a fantastic couple of hours there listening to various musicians who just drop in. Altogether a really good day.

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Location:Silves

Camping Albafeira

11th February

Relaxed day just chilling out. The one neighbour who didn't have his van plugged into the electrics nearby has befriended JC and he explained that he was the owner of www.motorhomefun.co.uk. Oh, good. That's the site I joined so was able to interrogate him about many things. Very nice family and actually quite a sweet little business. 1500 members paying £10 a year!

The site is very clean and attractive and I can see would be very popular in the summer. It is expensive but they are giving big discounts at the moment.









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Location:Albafeira

Busy

10th February

Jc came back from early dog walk to report that he had found out about the water refilling system and the loo emptying. It seems the pikey vanners, all 150 odd of them have lifted the manhole cover by the water fountain in the children's playground by the car park. This gives access to the water tap feeding the fountain. You then use a plastic hose to cover the spray nozzle of the fountain and feed this into your watering can or 5 litre water bottle.
The chemical toilets are emptied in another manhole which can be lifted if you carry a metal hook with you. We were not impressed with the way these probably normally respectable people fleece the city of Silves of their water supply. Thousands of gallons must be taken and in a country where there is little rain and presumably at times a water problem. So we opted to go to a campsite for a fill up.

We had bought a Daily Mail a week earlier and there was an article About the Algarve in the travel section. It included a piece on Cliff Richards vineyard which is in Guia close to the now defunct camper van dealer. We decided to go visit. We phone them to book a " TOUR" at 2.30 and because it is midday we have time to find a beach for a for a walk and lunch. Headed straight into Albufeira and wiggled our way around the beach and finally found a gorgeous secret place between Praia de Gali and Praia de Evaristo. A tiny beach and small secluded sunbathing areas in the rocks. We disturbed a naked couple who were as surprised as we were.














The driveway to the vineyard, as they call it, has two brick pillars holding the gates. We are now old hands at getting through brick pillars but I decide that today I am just not in the mood.


We go 400 yards back down the road to the Algarve shopping centre and park up. Unfortunately not in the shade, so we opened up both big hatches and left the front windows open a crack. Not ideal, but with our front hatch broken, that is all we could do. It was 20c in the van and 22c when we got back 2 hours later. The dogs were fine. We could never have left them in a car, and I can't imagine what happens in the summer.

Cliffs vineyard was interesting although the tour as such was not possible as they were bottling. It was just a talk and a wine tasting which was very enjoyable.






Booked in for the night at Albuferira camping. We met the neighbours pretty quickly having tried to use our electric fire and blowing all the fuses for the 4 vans nearby. So retired to the camp restaurant for a good supper accompanied by Karaoke. "We're all going on a summer holiday!!"



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Location:Albufeira

Busy going nowhere

9th February

The weather is still freezing at night. Not sure if it has improved that much since leaving Porto Covo, but it is not as windy and the day temp is usually around 17c saddlebag and gets the van up into the mid 20's very quickly. We have been using quite a lot of gas for the heating system and decide to top up. Ugh! There is a garage offering GPL within 15 miles at Portimao where you serve yourself. OH NO! As usual we fit our adapter and then the gas nozzle and all the gas comes spurting out and we manage to put in 10 litres before it stops. We feel this is half of what we have room for,and then another motorhome pulls up. They are Brits and old hands at GPL and LPG and everything to do with motohoming, vanning, and stuff. Phew. He looked at our adapter, screwed it back in and fitted the gas nozzle over the top. NOPE. Gas squirting everywhere. He put his own adapter on. Virtually a replica of ours and no problem. Nozzle fitted like a glove and gas flows. But only €1.30 worth. Then it allowed to fill at one cent a minute and we gave up. The gauge was still showing empty on the second bottle. It's not easy.

Our next stop was to find the camper van dealer in Guia. We had come across it in the Aires book the night before. Guia is only 15 odd miles from Portimao so off we went. Something about it being at the top of the hill leaving Albufeira. NO, not this hill. I think we are on the right road going in the wrong direction. OH, we must have passed it. TURN AROUND. Ahhh, there it is, was, now closed and land up for sale. Hmm. Not a very successful day so far. We need to give the pups a walk and head for the beach at Armacao de Praia. Ideal. There is a large empty car park right on the beach at the east end of the town, and a long sandy beach running east and west as far as the eye can see.




























We haven't decided where to stay tonight and wonder if there will be a wild camping place on the front nearby. Look up Google Earth to see if there is anything obvious and can see some motorhomes camped up on the cliffs on the west end of town.

We drive there to find 2 x large vans parked up on the cliffs overlooking the sea. Fantastic. Just need to get some provisions and we'll be back. On our return about an hour later, the cliffs are deserted and I notice a sign with a caravan and a red circle and a line going through it and a price of €165,500, although why that figure I have no idea. We decided against it.

On our way down from the Barragem that morning we passed the historic town of Silves, and noticed literally hundreds of vans all parked up by the river. We decided to head back there as it is now 5.00 pm and everyone is exasperated.



This car park is enormous and is free and has no motorhome or caravan signs. Jc takes the dogs off and meets a group of British vanners sitting around a few bottles outside one of their vans. They have been here for 6 weeks. Lord knows how they get rid of chemical loo and get water etc. although we found out the next day.

We were pleased to see that with a bit of bumping around the gas gauge had changed from empty to full. Who knows what the real position is?

Jc and I went out for a stroll to find a beer that evening, and came across a great little place with loads of character. Run by a Yorkshireman, an ex electrician from Doncaster, who moved out there 10 years ago with his American cook wife. At 6.30 the place was empty and at 7.00 a few people came in and went to the restaurant upstairs. Just as I am feeling sorry for places like this. Slow, quiet time of the year. Dodgy economy, blah, blah, a couple come in and Mr Doncaster asks them if they have booked! no, then sorry, we are full. To us, they looked respectable and the restaurant only had 4 people in it. He went on to explain to the surprised customers that tonight is Fardo night. A very busy day of the week and they need to book. Fardo is a type of music played in Portugal. It is sad apparently and tells a story ( all sounds a bit depressing). But obviously hugely popular in Silves. You learn something new everyday!


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Location:Silves

Oh Dear

9th February

When we arrived at the Barragem last night we were greeted by 2 dogs who at first looked as if they belonged to a Uk group of campers having a couple of jars in the sunshine. One of the girls in the group came over to assure us they weren't and to advise they may have fleas. Both had the same reddish hair colour. The larger one being the size of a small lab, long haired and in reasonable shape, but a reddish eye. The smaller one is terrier sized but very thin. Short haired and has long stick like legs that wobble around a bit like a young foal who is not sure of standing. Her jaw is all wrong with the bite from the top meeting the bottom and she doesn't have a bark, just a sort of wailing high pitched wailing noise that sounds a bit like a hyena. She is not right.

I spoke to the group about the dogs and the women told me it wasn't fair to feed them and one of the guys walloped the small one when it started making a noise. All quite upsetting, so I walked away. That night was very cold. Around -2c and we heard the little one occasionally wailing. The next morning I said that I wanted to go immediately as I couldn't bear the whole dog situation. And all of a sudden shocked both him and myself by bursting into tears. That was it. Inconsolable. Jc went outside to pack up and noticed the single rather untidy guy in the group feeding the dogs. Jc then took a can of dog food over at my request. Me now a blubbering wreck anyway. And was told that he was a vegetarian and had given them sardines and salad for breakfast and our dog food would do for that night.

We left not knowing what was going to happen to them and hopefully some kinder souls than us would give or find them a home.


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Location:Barragem do Arade

A typical cast off

8th February

The morning walk is taken in turns and on the day that JC does it, I climb off my shelf and put it away before he leaves the van. It sticks out over the door slightly when down so makes the job of manhandling 2 excited dogs out on leads even more difficult. So I climb into the other bed with a cup of tea before getting up. This morning was no different except that I upset my tea over the bed clothes, and it seemed to catch everything. Both pillows, duvet, and under sheet as well as the top blanket. Groan. The early start is now looking unlikely and the next hour is spent purchasing tokens, dragging washing liquid out from under all the stuff packed away in the garage, washing and tumbling. By now, all whites have become either grey or slightly pink and the slept-in non iron look abides!

I rather grumpily jump back into the van at about 10.30 announcing that I am ready to go when Gybo unusually pushes past me though the slightly ajar door and she is out.

Now we know she is the bestest good girl in the whole world and unlike her son is obedient and comes when called. EXCEPT for sometimes. When we have been on a walk where we have used the car to get there, she will not willingly get back into the car. I remember the first time it happened she was 6 months old and we were running around a field for 2 hours trying to catch her. I was in tears and JC was threatening to drive off and leave her there.

She has crossed the lane now and is racing around the lawn by the site reception area. When she sees us, she goes down on her front paws, bum in the air as if inviting us to play and then she is away again, jumping and frolicking like a young puppy. So she knows she is doing wrong. Neither of us can keep a straight face and we have learnt that we won't now persuade her to come to us. So we return to the van, and she sits and waits for a while and then saunters over. It is now 11.00.

By the time we have emptied the grey water in the designated grey water emptying area, emptied the loo in the chemical disposal area and filled up with water, it is midday. And we finally set off.

We had been told about a wild camping place just above Albufeira. It is by the side of a 'Barragem'. This is the name for a dam in Portugese and where there is a Barragem there is usually a large car park overlooking the water. An obvious wild camping site for motorhomes. Barragem Do Arade is beautiful and there are 2 large car parks where a cluster of international motorhomes have gathered.



We are now only 25 odd miles from the south coast. The wind has dropped and now at 6.15pm, it is still in double figures in the saddle bag, so I think we made the right decision.


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Location:Barragem do Arade

A change of Plan

7th February

A chilly wind is blowing from the North and whilst we are cosy, it puts a dampner on being out and about. More discussions, map looking, and internet searching on temperatures, and finally the decision is taken. We will go South tomorrow. A bit of shopping, a bit of washing and a relaxed evening. We will leave as soon as we are up in the morning.



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Location:Porto Covo

Porto Covo

6th February
Last night was so warm neither of us slept properly. Saddlebag was above 10C when we went to bed and 12C when we sort of woke up. We went for a long walk along the cliffs. They are covered with succulents and cacti type plants and give a pinky blue tone to the whole area.








Lunch was octopus salad and JC had the best beef dish so far. Not really sure what it was but definately part of a cow with some Parma ham. Much of lunch was spent discussing the weather and whether we would go North or Back South from here. But the decision was left for another day.

The shops here are mainly gifty stuff, and I suppose it is heaving here in the summer. We are surprised there is no fishing fleet based in the village. The sheltered harbour would be ideal, but all very quiet now.


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Location:Porto covo

Change of plan

5th February

At 8.30 this morning the temp. Inside the van was 4 degrees. Not sure Bout outside. It was 0C at 9.30 when we finally got up. So decided to look for a warmer location. Both of us are loathe to back down south as there is so much to see around here and we will then spend more time coming back up. The compromise is to go west to the coast. Comparing the 5 day forecasts it looks like the weather there is similar to the south and much warmer than inland.

So we found a site at a little village called Porto Covo. Bit of a rough site with mostly static caravans, but only a short walk to the shops and bars, and the beach. The latter being delightful and reminded me of North Cornwall.



Secret small sandy bays of yellow sand. Gybo was in her element.

That evening the third thing went wrong. My iPhone went on the blink and kept shutting down. Groan! After checking on line and finding lots of ghastly problems with the new software I decided to "Reset all Settings". This did the trick, although I have lost some of the pics and stuff on it, but at least it is working and I was able to do my Sunday duty and phone my mum.


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Location:Porto Covo

Tumbling

4th February
Need a domestic stop so found a camp site on our planned route at Serpa. Very basic and cheap but had a good big washing machine and tumble dryer. Jc's new checked shirt did not fair well in the dryer and I am waiting for the 3rd thing to go wrong.

It is very cold and we are thinking of driving back south to the Algarve to pick up the good weather again.


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Location:Serpa

Whoopsy Toads

3rd February

Very cold night. At 8.00 this morning, saddlebag 0C and inside 7C. Chilly. But so far we are snug and ok.

Mosied around the walled town of Mertola. I think we must have missed the main attraction but managed to get some shopping.









We have planned a route for the next couple of weeks but because we understand that wild camping around here is easy, we haven't planned in a place to stay tonight. Just feel that we could play it off the cuff.

After only a short drive from Mertola we passed by a lake and saw campers parked up on the other side in an idyllic spot. So decided to join them.















The P sign as we approached had a brand new sign under it saying NO CAMPING CARS. Hmm, there were at least 8 parked up and mostly British.
As soon as we parked up, our neighbour came to enlighten us about things. The sign was brand new and they didn't know whether we would all be thrown off but they had been coming to this spot for 5 years. After chapter and verse on the town's attractions, the menu in the local restaurant and the weather up north, we escaped for our walk.

Kicker is doing his usual 500 yards for our 10 and then stops for a whoopsy. I am ready with my black pooh bag and as I enclose my right hand over it, the ground below my thumb and forefinger moves and jerks my hand up. OMG. Kicker has managed to deposit a deposit on top of 2 large frogs in the middle of their mating activities. Pic here was taken a while later after they had sensibly moved slightly away. I hope it didn't ruin their day.







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Location:Minos Santo Domingos

Pan Pan 2

2nd February

We decide to spend another day here and perhaps walk up to Gwil's village in the afternoon. It is a bit fluffy cloudy, and chilly but ok. A wind has got up and there a few blasts along the river which we can feel, but inside the van, the sun is as usual heating us up and we need to open the hatches to keep a comfortable temperature. I am on my second dog. Grooming the big boy kicker about 50 yards from Wishstream when I feel a big gust of wind and a loud bang coming from the row of camper vans parked by the river. Apparently our slightly open skylight is now in the car park and where it used to live is a large hole 700 mm x 300 mm.

Is it broken? Yes. The plastic/perspex pane has broken off at the hinge, and just when everything was going so well. Gwil kindly came down with a ladder and tape and I lay on my fat tummy on the roof and taped the front side down. Inside, it is held down with dog leads and bungees, but not sure how long it will last and we spent the next 2 hours trying to find a Burstner dealer. The only one that answered the phone was in Spain, about 100 miles from us and as usual, they couldn't understand one word. I rang off and wondered why I hadn't continued with those Spanish lessons.


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Location:Pomarao

Pomarao

Ist February

Weather has been amazing. Permanent blue skies but a very cold wind, so in it you need to be dressed up warm, but out of it is shirt sleeves. We are going to a very small village called Pomarao which is again on the Guardiana but about 50 miles up the river and right on the border. The river is very wide and picturesque. Places like Foz de Odeilete are beautiful where the road runs close to the river, and winter sailors are spending time resting up here.
















Pomarao is a lovely quiet village. The view is spectacular and there is a large car park right by the river which is an obvious favourite wild camping spot.



There are no shops in the village but a bread and separate vegetable van comes once a day. It has 2 bars, one of which is behind the car park and was open during our stay. Glass of vino tinto here being 50 cents! Next door to the bar are the village showers for which there is no charge, and the water was really hot. One of my surveying colleagues Gwil, lives in a village 1 km from Pomarao, which is really why I had heard of the spot, and we met up with him for a drink. An amazing example of just how people can change their lives. He used to be a senior employee in the Social services, and sort of sailed away about 10 years ago. He seems very relaxed and happy with the world. It does make you think!


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Location:Pomarao

Dale Farm

31st January

We decided to go back to the free wild camping car park at Monte Gordo for the night. But first we need to top up with Gas as we know the Eastern side of the country has few camp sites and LPG stations. Also, I need to get a Portugese Sim card as we won't be finding wifi often. Both of these chores are my least favourite of the trip but we set off to Olhao with smiles on our faces. Olhao is west and we ultimately want to go East but feel there is a good chance of finding mobile phone shops in the new Shopping centre there. And there are, so now sorted for our time in Portugal.

The LPG station was as usual very difficult to find and we arrived at 13.07. Note on the pump said closed 13.00 to 14.00, and as we were reading this, a very small and elderly Portugese lady came out. A bit of Ponglais was exchanged and a few charades and we attached our almost new adapter. Not sure if it was this or the ancient nozzle but once she clicked it into the adapter, gas started pouring out. Jc tightened it up and still more gas poured out. She calmly shrugged as if this was alright and that gas was going in. I waved at the pump which still showed €32 from the previous transaction. She smiled and went over and reset the pump. No idea if it was filled up as there was so much gas around it was difficult to see the dial. But she decided it was and showed us the dial on her pump reading €9.30. The €10 note Jc gave her was retained and she asked for more money to pay for all the amount that sprayed out! I did wonder if this leakage had been from our bottles rather than her pump but never mind. Lots of Obrigado's( thank you) all round and off we went.

When we visited the beach car park at Monte Gordo 9 days earlier, it was heaving with motorhomes. Possibly over 100. Today, it was empty. Hmmm. We parked up and took the dogs on the beach before settling on an outside table at one of the beach restaurants. Many Germans here and we think a German proprietor. He explained that the car parked had been cleared the evening before. By the Mayor! Whilst we were lunching, 2 more vans came in and parked up, but we're soon warned off and left. We decided to move across the road into the campsite. Of course, this was now heaving and the receptionist suggested we look around for a place before booking in as many of the places left had a very soft sand base. The site was really unpleasant. The electric system comprising a network of cables running high up between the pine trees and then down into really old distribution boxes. On the sunny side of the site all these sockets were taken anyway. There are no designated pitches and you simply park where there is a gap. We quickly agreed we 'd rather not stay.

We had heard of a large carpark at the next door town. Vila Real de San Antonio. This had been a wild camping site for years and recently been seen by the council as an opportunity. They put some taps in, sorted out a drain where you can empty chemical loos and grey waste and charge €4 a night. It is right on the glorious Guadiana river and whilst the park is a sort of Dale farm with hundreds of campers, it is in the sun, clean and only minutes from the main bars, cafes and shops. The town was a real surprise with sophisticated and expensive shops and tree lined cobbled streets.










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Location:Vila Real de San Antonio