The Gironde river is famous for its association with the Cockleshell Heroes, the team of Royal Marines led by Blondie Hasler whose plan was to canoe seventy miles up river to Bordeaux and attach mines to the German ships there. The river at the mouth is lined by sand dunes where Hasler would have hidden overnight and the Aire in which we camped last night was next to this beach.
We took the ferry this morning across the river to Royan. A first for the pups as we crossed the channel by Eurotunnel. There is no reservation system. You just turn up, but the boat is quite large and whilst there were 3 camper vans, a couple of lorries and a handful of cars, it was virtually empty. We decided to take the dogs with us and sit on deck with them as they weren't allowed inside the lounge bit. But we hadn't counted in the weather. The morning never really broke. It was a pea soup fog morning, and freezing cold.
The door to the interior is accessed by a large push knob which is sited next to double doors. Under this knob there is a NO DOGS sign. I went inside to have look round, and turn into a spacious lounge. The first think I see is a dog sitting by his master. In Franglais I ask if dogs are ok inside. Oui, Oui, says the woman sitting next to the man. No problem. So we sit inside in luxury. And the pups are very well behaved. Bizarre.
Driving north in the fog, I noticed a sign mentioning Cognac. Are we in Cognac country then?, I ask the font of all alcohol knowledge. Affirmative. We then see a "cave de Cognac". BRAKE. turn right and park up. Within minutes we are inside. Monsieur is very kind and soon JC has ordered a bottle. Monsieur's son arrives. He speaks English. " have you tried this. It is a bit like a port?" Hmmm. It was. " and what about this one?" ummm, yumm, that is nice too! And perhaps this one? Jc sensibly sipped each one, whereas because I was so cold and it was warming my cockles, I guzzled the lot. We came away with 3 bottles of something and some strawberry mustard. Jc had to take over driving. It was a nice interlude.
We are heading towards Nantes. Apparently the 3rd biggest city in France. Unfortunately we can't find any Airs or large car parks so have decided to bypass it, and we opt for an Aire in a village called St Phillbert de Grand Lieu. No reason really except that I feel we have been sitting in the van too much in the evenings and we need a place near to some civilisation and hopefully a good restaurant.
A long drive and as we pull into the Aire which is as usual by a river, we look at each other. no shops or bars round here! I take the dogs whilst JC does a recce and comes back triumphant. There is a hotel in town and its restaurant called The Brasserie is open. And they are ok about us bringing the pups. Great. We both change and i wear my new totty boots which make me 6ft high and feel like I am wobbling about on them. Jc thinks they're great great as i am taller than him and have tomsort of lean on him. Especially after a few glasses. We move the van to a good place really close to the restaurant. As it is so close, we decide to leave the pups in the car.
The restaurant is a real surprise. Full of smart people and we are greeted by the most adorable dog that looks just like Gybo only enormously fat. Ahhha, a restaurant chien!
The meal was excellent and lovely not to have to fret about dogs under the table.
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Location:St Phillbert de Grand Lieu
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